Can You Put a Date on this Birdseye Maple Veneer Desk?

I could use your help.  Can you put a date on this birdseye maple veneer desk?   I got it at auction last weekend ($100).  I don't have a clue other than I really like it.  And that's what really counts, right?

 The drawers are solid wood, and dove tail joints.

The photo above is the best indication of the actual color.

 Nothing broken.  Some scratches and wear here and there. 

The desk is sitting in the summer kitchen (east porch entrance) for now.  I gave it to Jon for father's day.  This will be a good place for his paperwork.

This afternoon, I took some time to clean it with Danish oil and photograph it.

Art Studio / Sewing Room

Here we go. 

We built a new garage between our Queen Anne Victorian and the old barn.  The garage is a two story building with a new art studio and sewing room on the second floor.   

Our drywall experts:  Bev and Tom Lederhaus.  They do oustanding work.

Below: Tom Lederhaus on stilts mudding the drywall seams.

Above: the elevator shaft in the east dormer.

 Bev Lederhaus muds the drywall screws.  When Jon framed in the elevator shaft, there was a little space left over to build a shallow broom/supply closet. 

I am standing at the north west corner of the art studio.  Beyond the French door is a balcony overlooking the backyard and vegetable garden. 

Standing at the North East Corner of the Studio looking South.  Off to the right you can see the West Dormer (8' x 12') a space dedicated for sewing.  Looking forward to sewing in great light.

 I'm standing in the East Dormer where the elevator is located, looking across the main art studio space into the sewing room.

 Here's a straight on shot of the sewing room.  It's not big, but it is heaven to me!

Center light source in the sewing room will be a fan/light fixture.  Only another woman my age with hot flashes will understand why I need a fan in such a small space.  Plans: two matching antique ceiling pendants on either side of the double windows planned--repurposed from two upstairs bedrooms in the Victorian.   "L" shaped countertop supported underneath using the library card files Mom and I refinished in black satin enamel last September.  

Below are photos of refinishing those library card files.

The credenza contains four sections bolted together (60 drawers).  I removed the mid-century modern legs.  These sections will sit underneath (support) the sewing room countertop.

Two credenzas = 120 drawers of library card files.  That was a long, long project. But worth it.

Standing in the middle of the art studio.

Straight ahead is the north wall, and cartons of walnut laminate flooring, and the library card files are stack one on top of each other covered with an old comforter.

 Above: I'm standing at the South East corner of the art studio.  To the left is the sewing room.

 I pointed my camera towards the East dormer elevator.

Above:  The East dormer

Once the elevator is installed Jon will remove the ladder and close the opening in the floor. 

We've turned the corner on the construction mess.  Hot dog, it's looking good. 

Note: I took these photos at the beginning of the mudding/taping process.  This morning the drywall team finished and the rooms are ready to paint.  This afternoon I picked up Zinzer 1-2-3 primer and when this 95 degree weather dies down a bit, I'll start painting. 

I'm saving the top coat color as a surprize.  I reupholstered 10 chairs last summer/fall for the studio, and if you'll check back last summer's journal I acquired some very cool vintage chairs for the studio. 

I'm so excited.  It won't be long now.  We'll be dressing the studio.  See ya later, aligator.

Re-covering Pillows with Piping - Photos

I made 3 new covers for pillows.  This is the last step, pinning and getting ready to close.

Just a few pins to hold the pillow seam steady while I sew 1/8" blindstitches.  Once the blindstitches are complete you can't see the piping stitches peaking through.

Cutting the Front and Back
The pillow forms were 18" squares.  To make a perfect cover--I cut front and back panels at 19" square.  That's the secret--always cut fabric one inch larger than the size of the pillow form.  Next, I serged all four sides of each panel.  Set panels to the side.

Preparing Piping
I used 3/8" cotton cord.  It is soft, and turns effortlessly around corners--making for easy sewing.

Piping is a plaid fabric and cut 2-1/2" strips with a rotary cutter.  I made 3 pillow covers, and each pillow requires two yards of piping, plus a tiny bit more to ease the corners.  I purchased 6.5 yards of cotton cord.  The plaid fabric was 56" wide, so I cut 5 strips, and joined the strips with the serger.  Then I like to serge the entire length of the large plaid strip.

Using a zipper foot on my regular sewing machine I slipped the cotton cord into the plaid fabric strip, keeping the zipper foot snug against the cotton cord and stitch.  I lengthen the stitch to 2.8 or 3.0 so the fit is relaxed.

After the piping is sewn, with scissors I snip every 1/2 inch along the entire strip length.  Get a cup of coffee, sip often, and sing to pass the time while you make the snips, taking care not to snip too deep--staying clear of the stitch line.  About 100 snips per yard.  Snipping is boring, but honestly it is the most important step in getting the piping to mold around the panel--making it a breeze to sew.

The piping is pinned to the front panel.  Place the piping to the edge of the fabric.   I lay the front panel right side up, find center and begin to pin the piping.  Above Photo--at the corner place pin, then

 At the center of the corner place second pin, then

And now you can see placement of the third and fourth pin, continuing to pin every two inches until you reach the next corner and repeat.

As you pin and turn the corner, if you lift the fabric you can readily see how the piping will gently ease around the turn--confirming everything is pinned great.

 When you've pinned the piping all the way around the pillow, let the piping extend 1 inch beyond and cut with scissors.

 At the left, see the white cotton cord.  I exposed the cord by removing stitches back 1 inch. 

 I snipped off 1 inch of cotton cord.  Notice the twisted cord wants to immediately unravel, and the 1 inch of cord I cut off looks like a chunk of white fluff.  Pick it up and throw it over your shoulder for good luck! 

 When I straighten the left piping sleeve, the cotton cord retracts immediately.  Fold the end of the raw material into the area where you snipped off the 1 inch of cotton cord.  Then,

Here, I am holding the left piping sleeve open, and placing the right piping inside.  The fit will be perfect.

With a stitch length of 2.8 to 3.0,  stitch around the entire perimeter of the front panel.

IMPORTANT - The best kept secret is: remove pins several inches before you stitch. 

Removing the pins as you stich will allow the snipped piping to relax and sit in perfect alignment. 

Stitch to the middle of the corner, stop, put needle in the down position to hold the fabric, then pivot to make the turn and continue stitching removing pins as you go.

After you finish sewing the piping, place the back panel on top of the front panel with right sides together.  Pin every 3 inches. 

Using the zipper foot stitch snug to the piping cord around the perimeter.  Be sure to leave an opening of 8-10" to slide a pillow form into position.

Close opening with blindstitches.  Give it a try and have fun. 

I Love Making Purses

During the remaining cold Wisconsin months (March, April, May), I've been sewing like a mad woman. 

Here are purses I sewed last weekend.  Nothing like a great fall/winter purse like these.

This so-soft fabric made three great purses.  I added button closures

and added two permanent pockets to the lining, just big enough to hold a kindle, wallet, and checkbook.

I made portable pockets to slip in and out of the purses. 

Above, the portable pocket holds a kindle and earphones--ready to slip in and out of the bag. 

But here's a trick.  My invention--I call the portable pockets "Halfsies" because . . .

Take the Halfsie in your hand, and stuff the bottom upward . . .

Use your finger tips to slid the bottom of the halfsie upward to form a double lined-double pocket to store smaller objects inside the bag.  It's a great purse organizer.

The halfsie is a perfect spot to tuck away important receipts rather than having them swim around in your purse.

Or to hold reading glasses.

One of side of the halfsie holds my little camera, and the other side holds my cell phone.  I stuffed my tube of lipstick in the corner. They tuck down nicely into the folds. 

Here's the purse loaded and ready to go.  Water, coin purse, kindle w/ear phones, and halfsie containing a cell phone, camera and lipstick.  It is so convenient to reach inside to grab your phone, or camera, or glasses.  You can find what you need just by "feel"--and you don't have to fish around for it.   

Here are a couple fun purses . . .

The silky fabric purse on the left is double lined to keep it crisp looking and sturdy.  On the right is a canvas purse, personalized inside and out.

 

The fun ruffle is so silky to the touch.  The same satin fabric lines the purse interior and two permanent pockets.

Above is an example of a personalized purse.

Leave me a comment if you'd like to see a photo tutorial "how to make these great purses".